View Full Version : New England Novice Extravaganza II- June 6th, 2015!

02-19-2015, 07:00 PM
Hi everyone!

New England Novice Extravaganza II is on for June 6th in Spencer, MA! This is an all-novice show with two Breed divisions (Intermediate and Beginner), Collectibility and Performance!

Here is the show packet since I cannot upload it as an attachment.

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Join us for the 2nd annual New England Novice Extravaganza!
WHERE: Knights of Columbus Hall, 10 Meadow Rd, Spencer MA
WHEN: June 6th 2015
TIME: Show starts at 9 am, hall opens at 8 am
COST: $20 for Beginners, $25 for Intermediates, $10 if showing in Performance ONLY
JUDGES: Kate Dwyer- Performance, Others TBA

NENE is a novice model horse show designed for showers who are young, new to the hobby, or returning from a hobby hiatus. This is the perfect way to get into the competition without the pressure of facing seasoned showers. It is also a great way to learn more about the hobby, real horses, and how live shows work. Most of all, we strive to provide a fun atmosphere- because that’s the best part!

***The show hostess, judges, and show hall owners/managers are NOT held responsible for any property damage, theft, or injuries. Please try to not leave your table unattended. This is a small show and I do not expect any issues of the sort, but keep it in mind. ***
· There will be a raffle! You may bring items to donate, but please keep them real horse or model horse related if possible. All proceeds will benefit the current and future years of this show!
· Placings are to 10th place in all divisions. Performance classes will receive recycled flats from BreyerFest, Collectibility and Intermediate Breed will receive a mix of new custom flats and BreyerFest flats, and Beginner Breed will receive handmade ribbons. In addition, all Sectional champs and reserves will receive handmade trophies and Divisional champs and reserves will receive handmade trophies and custom rosettes. Additional prizes (such as the Fun Class prizes) TBA.
· LUNCH: Subway will come to collect orders around 10 am or so. For those who do not want Subway, feel free to bring your own food, or there are a few fast food places within a short driving distance. Lunch is not included in the show fee.
· Each entrant will have half of an 8-foot banquet table to store their herd when they aren't in class. Please plan accordingly. Rotating models in and out of tubs all day can get confusing if you aren't a seasoned shower, so if you can, try to make sure all your models will fit in that space. If you would like to be seated next to a friend or relative, let me know and I'll make sure to put you together.
· There may be models for sale, from the hostess, judges, and potentially others.
· This is NOT a NAN-Qualifying show. NAN cards earned in Open competition allow a model to compete at the National show. Models shown here will also not earn Regional (TRXC) qualifying cards as there is currently no novice year-end championship.
· Results will be posted to www.regionxnation.com (http://www.regionxnation.com/).
· NO running in the showhall. This is absolute.
· Any child under the age of 13 must be accompanied at all times by a responsible adult. I am not responsible for your children and neither are my judges.
· Please do not bring young children who will not be showing unless they are quiet and well behaved. There is no “official” area for them to play safely away from the show tables.
· No loud music, smoking, pets, or alcohol.
· Do not touch anyone else’s models without permission.
· Judges’ decisions are final.
· Poor sportsmanship will not be tolerated. Multiple instances of this may result in you being asked to leave the show.
· Have respect for everyone in the room; judges, the showholder, other showers, and their families/friends.
· Most of all: Have fun!!!

NENE is a participant in the Region 10 Tag System. What’s that, you might ask? It is a number system that assigns each shower who participates in Region 10 shows their own unique 3-digit number. Showers use this number to make their show tags. I’ll explain that a bit more soon!

In order to get a number, you must apply by sending an email to Jackie Arns-Rossi at numbers@regionxnation.com. You only need to give her the name that will be associated with that number (if you’re a parent requesting one for you child, you’d send the child’s name). If you’ve shown already, but you don’t remember your number, email Jackie as well. Once she replies with your number, you need to make an account with the Region 10 Tag Manager. This is fairly simple and only takes a few minutes! After that’s done, fill out the entry form and put it in the mail, or email me a copy. If you do not have a Region 10 number, you will not be allowed to enter. Get your number FIRST.

Once you have an account with the Tag Manager, you’re ready to enter your models into the system. This only needs to be done when you’re entering new models for the first time. Each model needs its own 3-digit number that will follow your own, like this: 123-456. The numbers you’ve assigned to your horses in the tag system and what is written on their tags needs to match. You need to have your models named, breeds assigned, finish (if it has been repainted or not) and gender assigned. The form in the system will ask for all of these fields to be entered. There will be a link at the top of the page that says “Add a New Horse”. You’ll enter the info into the form, and then you have the option to “Add Another Horse” or go “Back to the List”. When you’re done adding models, you can select to print your entire horse list, or just some of them. Make sure you have all the ones checked off that you plan to show this time. I do not need your list prior to show day.
When you make your leg tags, here is the information you need to have: breed, gender, finish, and Region 10 number on one side, and the model’s name and your name on the other. Please write clearly, or if you dislike your handwriting, the Tag Manager has an option to print tag labels. The most common size of tag is 1 inch. Larger is okay, but try not to go too large, and especially not too small! The judges will need to be able to read the info on the tag quickly. White is the preferred color of tag (it’s easier to read!), though if you only have colored ones, that is okay.

Information on horse breeds can be found in books, or online. It is important to have a picture of a horse in the breed you choose for it (and sometimes the color), along with the basic information about the breed’s features, what colors it comes in, and what it is used for (racing, dressage, work in fields, etc.). Here is a good example of some of the points you want to look for to include in your documentation, although it helps to be a bit briefer if you can! http://foundationmorganhorse.com/breedstandards.asp. Most people will use no more than one sheet of paper for Breed documentation.

When selecting your models to show, choose those that are in the best condition or that look the most like a breed of horse. Condition is very important in Open competition- those with rubs or scratches will not do well. However, it is slightly less important in Novice, due to the learning emphasis. You should still show your best models though, but do not be discouraged if you don’t own any perfect condition ones. After you’ve decided which ones you want to show, look them over carefully and dust or wash them if they have dust or dirt on them. Clean models place better. If this is your first show, it is best not to overwhelm yourself with too many entries. 15-25 is a good amount for a first show, 10-20 if the entrant is a younger child. Attach your tags before packing- this will save time in the morning of the show. The tags should be attached to a leg that is touching the table/ground. When you pack your models to show, it is important that they are wrapped first in bubble wrap or cloth (with no parts sticking out!), to prevent rubs and scratches while traveling. Many people in the hobby make pouches out of fabric that fold over at the top and are larger enough than the models inside them that there is no risk of breaking legs, tail, or ears. I recommend fleece, it’s thin enough to not be bulky, but it’s thick enough to protect your models. You’ll want to have a nice sturdy box or plastic tote on hand to put your wrapped models in. Try to put heavier ones toward the bottom, and make sure they are not fitting too tight or too loose inside the container.

Collectibility is another type of classes that models can show in. Judges evaluate these models on condition, age, rarity, desirability, and their overall impression. It is important to provide an index card for your collectibility entries than explains why your model is collectible. Include: Release dates (when the model was produced), how many were made (if known), if it was only limited to sale from a certain source or event (like Wal-Mart or BreyerFest), and if it is an unusual variation (the paint or finish looks very different from what the model normally looks like). There are several different classes available in the Collectibility division. There is also a class for models that were not produced by Breyer, but by other companies like Peter Stone horses or CollectA. If your model has a Certificate of Authenticity, you should bring that along. Vintage boxes, if you have them, can be shown with the model, but not the newer boxes- these do not add any desirability to the model. If your horse has a signature on its belly, you can put a mirror underneath the horse so the judge can see it. A couple of websites that you can use to find out which model you have are www.identifyyourbreyer.com (http://www.identifyyourbreyer.com/) and www.modelequus.com (http://www.modelequus.com/). You can also look in the collectors’ guides written by Nancy Young, Felicia Browell, Kelly Diller (different last name at time of publishing), and Kelly Korber Weimer. When you are deciding which class to show your model in, go by the year the model was released.

Performance is like a “snapshot” of a horse event. The model must be wearing some sort of tack (as opposed to Breed and Collectibility, in which just the horse itself is showed), and it should be performing a sort of task that a real horse would do. Model horses can show in everything from Western Reining to Dressage and Parade. Many people are extremely creative with Performance. First of all, you’ll want to find examples of a real horse performing the event in real life. Documentation in Performance means an explanation of what the horse is doing. In some events, like barrel racing, or dressage, you’ll need to include the pattern or test that the horse is attempting to execute, and at what point it is at. For more unusual events, it is customary to include a brief history of the event or sport. The most important part of performance is if the equipment the model is wearing would be safe in real life. Tack that is not adjusted correctly is one of the most common ways to lose placings. Setups are also encouraged. Footing, jumps, and fences are examples of what you may want to include, except in English and Western Pleasure. Those are the only classes where only the horse and its tack will be judged. Props are expected to be in scale as much as possible, and realistic. Some experienced performance showers include doll riders, but if they are not posed correctly on the horse, you will be placed lower. Most performance showers recommend starting without dolls until you get more experience! If you’re going to show your horse in performance classes, practice taking the tack on and off correctly, and know how long it will take you. Novice performance judges are patient, but it is best to make sure you’ve practiced your setups prior to the show. To save time, you may want to tack up your models that will be showing in performance before you pack them, since they will be the first classes in the morning.

The Performance and Collectibility divisions are open to all showers. Breed is split into Beginner and Intermediate. If this is your first show, you should show in Beginner. Beginner also includes those who have shown 3 or less times, have not won an overall champion or reserve champion in any division of any model horse show, or are 8 years old or younger. If you are under the age of 9 at the time of the show, the first two rules do not apply. You will show in the Beginner division. The Intermediate division is for those who have been showing for a while but are not yet comfortable with moving up to Open. This division is open to ages 9 and up. If you are new, and a teen or an adult, I’d recommend Beginner to those who are new to both showing and the hobby, Intermediate to those who have been in the hobby for a while (or a long time!) and have just never live shown. There is also a Performance-only option for those who only wish to show in that division. If you have any questions about which Breed division you should show in, please ask and I’ll help the best I can!

This show is open to any Original Finish model (a model that has not been altered in way- such as repainting, etching, repositioning, etc.). Customized models (altered from their factory finish) may compete in the Fun Classes only. Any scale or brand is accepted into the regular classes as long as it has not been altered. Unrealistic colored models and fantasy horses are eligible for Collectibility, but not Breed.

If you are interested in learning even more about model horse showing, check out Jill O' Connor's “Tips For Your First Live Show” here: http://www.regionxnation.com/bundles/rxnmain/pdf/Model%20Show%20Tips.pdf. If you are interested in learning more about the National Show and National Awards, visit www.namhsa.org (http://www.namhsa.org/).

Enter the fun classes for some pretty cool prizes! The entries in the fun classes do not compete for Championships.
1. Other Animals
2. Custom by Owner (something you have customized yourself)
3. Custom by Others (horses customized by other people)
4. Model Emergency! (most beat up model/failed customs)
5. Congas! ( 4 or more models of the same mold, breed, etc. Must have a theme!)
6. Creative Scene/Diorama (Use your imagination! This can be realistic or fantasy)

Limits- 1 setup per entrant in each Performance class, 3 per class in Collectibility and Breed. No overall limits of how many horses you may bring, but keep in mind how much table space you will have. Breyer models who have a run number of 350 or less will only be allowed to show in the Collectibility division. *If a horse does not place in it's breed or collectibility class, you may NOT change the breed/information to show it in another class!*

First thing in the morning will be Performance. After that, Collectibility will take place and the Performance judge will have a Q&A session for anyone who is interested. When Collectibility is over, both Beginner Breed and Intermediate Breed will run at the same time. Two rings per division will be used so that one may be setup while the other one is being judged.

1. Other Performance (not English or Western)
2. Parade/Costume
3. Saddleseat
4. Other Western
5. Western Trail
6. Western Pleasure
7. Other English
8. English Trail
9. English Pleasure

1. Breyer Regular Run 1950-1979
2. Breyer Regular Run 1980-1999
3. Breyer Regular Run 2000-2007
4. Breyer Regular Run 2008-2015
5. Breyer Special Run of 500 or less
6. Breyer Special Run of 501 or More- Source (JCPenny, Wal-Mart, etc.)
7. Breyer Special Run of 501 or More- Event (BreyerFest, etc.)
8. Peter Stone/Other Make Model Horse

1. Thoroughbred/Standardbred
2. European Warmblood
3. Coaching Breeds
4. Other Sport Pure/Part
5. Sport Foals
6. British Pony
7. Other European Pony
8. American/Other Pony
9. Pony Foals
10. British Draft
11. Other European Draft
12. American/Other Draft
13. Draft Foals
14. Appaloosa
15. Paint
16. Quarter Horse
17. Mustang/Other Stock
18. Stock Foals
19. American Saddlebred
20. Other American Gaited
21. Spanish Non-Gaited Breeds
22. Spanish Gaited Breeds
23. Spanish/Gaited Foals
24. Arabian
25. Part-Arabian
26. Morgan/Other Light
27. Light Breed Foals
28. Mules/Donkeys/Exotics
29. Other Breeds Not Listed/Mix/Grade
30. Other Foals

1. Thoroughbred/Standardbred
2. Warmblood
3. Other Sport/Coaching
4. Sport Foals
5. British Pony
6. Other Pony
7. Pony Foals
8. British Draft
9. Other Draft
10. Draft Foals
11. Appaloosa
12. Paint
13. Quarter Horse
14. Mustang/Other Stock
15. Stock Foals
16. American Gaited
17. Spanish Gaited
18. Spanish Non-Gaited
19. Gaited/Spanish Foals
20. Arabian
21. Part-Arabian
22. Morgan/Other Light
23. Light Foals
24. Mules/Donkeys/Exotics
25. Other Breeds Not Listed/Mix/Grade
26. Other Foals

Here is a general list of which breeds are considered to be part of which categories. This is the latest list from the NAMHSA website:
Stock Breeds
American Cream, American Mustang, Appaloosa, Appendix, Quarter Horse, Australian Stock Horse, Bashkir Curly, Cayuse, Colorado Rangerbred, Paint, Nokota
Light Breeds
Arabian, Barb, Camarillo White Horse, Canadian Horse, Iomud, Morgan, Turkoman, Ara-loosa/Ara-App, Morab, Quarab, National Show Horse, Renai
Gaited Breeds
American Saddlebred, Kentucky Saddle Horse, McCurdy Plantation Horse, Missouri Fox Trotter, North American Single-Footer, Rocky Mountain Horse, Spotted Saddle Horse, Tennessee Walking Horse, Tennuvian, Tiger Horse, Virginia Highlander, Walkaloosa
Andalusian/PRE/Carthusian/Cartujano, Azteca, Carolina Marsh Tacky, Castilian, Chilean Corralero, Chilean Horse, Criollo, Extremeno, Florida Cracker Horse, Hispano-Arab, Kiger Mustang, Lac La Croix, Indian Pony, Lippizzaner, Lusitano/PSL/Alter Real, Mangalarga Marchador, Menoquina, Moyle, Pampas Horse, Pantanerio Horse, Paso Fino, Peruvian Paso, Sorraia, Spanish Barb, Spanish Jennet, Spanish Mustang, Spanish Sulpher Horse, Zapatero
European Warmbloods
Austrian Warmblood, Bavarian Warmblood, Belgian Warmblood, Brandenberger, Budyonny, Czech Warmblood, Danish Warmblood, Dutch Warmblood, East Bulgarian, Finnish Universal, Frederiksborg, Hanoverian, Holstein, Hungarian Warmblood, Irish Draft/Draught, Irish warmblood, Kisber Felver, Malapolski, Mecklenburg, Oldenburg, Rhinelander/Zweibrucker, Russian Don, Selle Francais, Swedish Warmblood, Swiss Warmblood, Trakehner, Ukrainian Riding Horse, Wielkopolski, Wurttemberg,
Carriage & Driving Breeds
Belorussian Harness Horse, Cleveland Bay, Dolahest (aka Dole Gudbrandsal & Dole), Dutch Harness Horse (aka Tuigpaard), East Freisian, Freisian, Gelderlander, Georgian Grande, Gypsy Vanner (aka Gypsy Cob, Irish tinker, Coloured Cob, Tinker Horse), Hackney Horse, Kladruber, Knabstrup, Latvian Harness Horse, Moriesian, Norman/Normandy Cob
Other Sport
Akhal Teke, Nez Perce Horse, Anglo-Arabian (incl. all registires), Anglo-Kabarda, Appaloosa Sport Horse, Australian Waler, Canadian Pacer, French Trotter, Friewalker, Gidran Arabian, Gidran Sport Horse, Metis Trotter, Orlov Trotter, Pleven, Shagya Arabian, Spanish Norman, Standardbred, Thoroughbred, Warlander
European Draft Breeds
Ardennes, Auxios, Belgian (aka Brabant), Black Forest Horse, Boulonnais, Breton, Comtois, Dutch Heavy Draft, Estonian Draft, Finnish Draft, Frances-Montagnes (aka Frieberger), Furioso (aka Furioso-North Star), German Warmblood, Italian Heavy Draft, Jutland, Lithuanian Heavy Draft, Mulassier (aka Poitevin), Murakozi, Noriker (aka Oberlander, Pinzgauer), North Swedish Draft, Percheron, Rhineland Draft, Russian Heavy Draft, Schleswig Heavy Draft, Sokolsky, Soviet Heavy Draft, Swedish Ardennes, Toric, Trait du Nord, Vladmir Heavy Draft
British Isles Draft
Clydesdale, Shire, Suffolk Punch
American Draft
American Cream Draft, North American Spotted Draft, American Belgian, Sugarbrush Draft
British Isles Native Breeds (Non-Draft)
Connemara Pony, Dales Pony, Dartmoor Pony, Eriskay Pony, Exmoor Pony, Fell Pony, Hackney Pony, Highland Pony, Kerry Bog Pony, Lundy Pony, New Forest Pony, Shetland Pony, Welsh Pony/Cob (All Section A, B, C & D)
American Pony (incl. North & South America)
American Shetland Pony (all divisions), American Walking Pony, Assateague/Chincoteague Pony, Banker Pony (aka Shackleford), Falabella, Galiceno Pony, Miniature Horse, Newfoundland Pony, Petiso Argentino, Pony of the Americas, Quarter Pony, Sable Island Pony, Welara Pony
Other Pure Breed Pony
Anadolu (aka Ati), Australian Pony, Kaimanawa, European PonyAlbanian, Ariegeois, Astercon (aka Asturian & Galician), Avelignese Pony, Balearic, Bardigiano Pony, Bashkir Pony, Basque Pony (aka Pottock), Bosnian Pony, Camargue, Carpathian Pony (aka Hucul), Dulman Pony, Faeros, French Saddle Pony, Garrano, German Riding Pony, Gotland Pony (aka Skorgruss), Haflinger, Icelandic, Konik Pony, Landais Pony, Lyngshest (aka Nordlandshest), Manchurian, Merens Pony, Northlands Pony, Norwegian Fjord, Ob (aka Priob), Peneia Pony, Pindos (aka Thessalian), Sardinian Pony, Sykros Pony, Viatka Pony, Yakut, Zemaituka Pony
African Pony
Basotho (aka Basuto), Fleuvre (aka Fouta & M’Bayar), Kirdi, Nooitgedacht, Poney Mousseye
Asian Pony
Batak Pony, Bhutia (aka Spiti) Pony, Burmese Pony (aka Shan), Caspian Pony, Cheju, Chinese Guoxia Pony, Flores (aka Timor), Gayoe, Guangxi, Guizhou, Hokkaido, Java Pony (aka Kumingan), Kazakh Pony, Lijiang, Manipuri Pony, Misaki, Noma, Sandalwood Pony, Sumba (aka Sumbawa), Syrian Pony, Taishuh, Tibetan Pony, Tokara, Yangi
Asian/Asiatic Wild Horse, Balis, Burro, Donkey, German Heck Horse, Kiangas, Mongolian Mules (All Types), Onager, Przewalski, Quagga, Tarpan
Other Pure Breed Horse
Abtenauer, Abyssinian, Aegidienberger, Altai, Andravida, Australian Brumby, Balikun, Ban-ei, Boer (aka Boerperd), Bulichi, Calabrese, Campolina, Cretan Horse, Danubian, Deliboz, Djerma, Dongola, Estonian Native, Heihe, Hequ, Hirzai, Indian Half-Bred, Jinzhou, Kabarda (aka Kabardin), Karabair, Karabakh, Karacabey, Kathiawari, Kinsky, Kiso, Kushum, Kustanair, Latvian, Lokai, Losino, Maremmana, Marwari, Messara, Miyako, Murghese, Nonius, Novokirghiz, Qatgani, Rottaler, Salernitano (aka Salerno), San Fratello, Sanhi, Sardinian, Talweed, Tchernomor (aka Chernomor), Tersk, Tori, Unmol, Uzunyayla, Ventasso, Vlaamperd, Xilingol, Yili, Zhemaichu (aka Zhumdka)

Entry Form
Name:_____________________________________________ ________
Region 10 #:________ (This is REQUIRED. Get your number first if you don't have one!)
Division Entering (select one): “Intermediate” includes entry to Intermediate Breed, Collectibility, and Performance. “Beginner” includes entry to Beginner Breed, Collectibility, and Performance. Those who wish to show in Performance only should check that line.
Address:__________________________________________ _________
Address (2nd line):___________________________________________
Email:____________________________________________ _________
Who would you like to sit with? ___________________________
Payment method: ___CHECK ____MONEY ORDER ____ PAYPAL
Total Amount Due:__________
Please make checks or money orders payable to Amanda Reed. My PayPal address is pixelperfectstables@gmail.com.
My address is:
Amanda Reed
8 Pleasant St.
Granby, MA 01033
OR email this form to pixelperfectstables@gmail.com

ENTRY DEADLINE is MAY 30th. If there is still room for entries after that, I will accept them, but please be aware that you will be charged a $5 late fee.

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Please share this with anyone that might be interested!! :) Thank you so much for your support!